After indulging in various forms of multi ethnic cuisine, I was on the quest to find a place in Colombo that serves authentic Jaffna cuisine. This was no challenge, in terms of location as Kathiresan Street is the place in Colombo with the “Northern pulse”. Jaffna cuisine (yaalpana unavu) has a rich heritage which manifests in an opulent outburst of spices.
Navigating through the busy afternoon traffic and avoiding speeding tuk-tuks the venue was reached. The blaring music from a shop next door unleashed the latest Tamil hits. Jeyashree Café has been at this location since 1968, catering to the thousands of businessmen around Colombo 11 and 13. The moment you enter this domain of Jaffna food the strong aroma of fried fish permeates the air, and triggers your appetite. The tables are crowded with much chatter.
An elderly waiter acknowledges my presence and directs me to a table, where two beautiful Tamil girls are modestly engaged in lunch. They offer me a smile and talk in dulcet tones. The other waiters are somewhat loud and ‘proclaim’ the customers’ orders to the man in charge of the serving counter. My waiter comes and asks me,‘Red rice or white rice?’ – quite a sudden choice to make. The red rice grain or ‘naadu arisi’ used in the Northern Province is a larger grain, and I opted for the white ‘city’ rice.
Within seconds a fresh banana leaf is accurately positioned on the table. Two scoops of rice are bestowed by using an ‘eversilver’ spoon.
Next in this culinary sequence the waiter brings out a ‘three in one’ serving container from which he dishes out a brinjal curry, potatoes that have been tossed and tempered and a mixed vegetable sambar. He is back in 5 seconds with two tiny dishes that hold rasam (a northern delight that is said to aid in the digestion of a meal, mainly lunch) and curd sambol. The non vegetarian options for the day are crab curry (nandu), cuttle fish, mutton curry and deep fried fish (meen poriyal). The latter was my desire on this hot afternoon, and it was a wise choice. The fried fish was amazing. The fish is marinated in turmeric, tamarind, salt, chili and other spices and then immersed into heated coconut oil.
There is another ‘side option’- the omelette, which is made with much creative flair and showmanship by a middle aged man. I found it to be a hit among the younger guys coming here for lunch. The meal is value for money. The tantalizing flavours of Jaffna are a real treat. The two young women smile and leave. The waiter comes back with the large bowl of rice, and I sadly decline.
Two things that are missing at this venue is vehicle parking- it is a crowded street and walking there is the best option.
The other is the absence of Jaffna desserts, which would complete the experience. Jeyashree Café has done a remarkable task in sustaining the Jaffna food tradition in Colombo.