There are many elements that make up Colombo and the city’s culinary experience is one of them. Nowhere is this experience more diverse and alive than Aluthkade. Made up of intersecting streets near Hulftsdorp, Aluthkade is an oasis of street food in the beating financial heart of Colombo.
In just a few years, the small cafes and humble pushcarts on Abdul Hameed Street (Aluthkade’s main thoroughfare for street food) had turned into hip, upscale food businesses with colourful gimmicks that can give the King, the Clown and the Colonel a run for their money. This change was mostly driven by tourists and influencers frequenting Aluthkade. Although Hulfsdrop’s popularity for street food goes back a few decades, its social media and influence of Western fast food that had morphed it into what it is now.
The Sunday Observer travelled around the area with food critic, chef and long-time Modera resident Gihan Bulathsinhala to find out why Pettah is the undisputed kitchen of the city.
Food safari
Indika Pathirana
The One Shot
Our food safari began at 4pm, just before rush hour. Aluthkade’s little restaurants were prepping for the night with vendors firing up their barbeque machines and buttering buns. Gihan pointed to one eatery at the junction where Abdul Hameed intersects with Oilman Street and Merraniya Street. This is the oldest establishment in Aluthkade, Gihan says pointing to Masha Allah hotel. We saw patrons in line for fresh bread and other food orders. Masha Allah is a classic working class fare, offering samosas and other short eats alongside samosas and babath (beef tripe); a Moorish staple.
We walked along Abdul Hameed Street and met a generic food cart offering chicken kanji. The vendor explained that his meat porridge is the same as the ones offered at Mosques during Ramadan. We tasted the hot kanji and found it extremely wholesome. The vendor said that he makes a fresh batch everyday and that all the ingredients are sourced locally. We bid adieu to Aluthkade and travelled to Pettah floating market for further exploration.
Pettah’s Kela Pola or Forest Market is a farmers market adjacent the Pettah Floating Market boardwalk. There are many farmers markets in Colombo and Kela Pola is not much different. Even at 5pm, many small trucks were unloading produce. Gihan said that Kela Pola is a sleepless market. “This place is open night and day,” Gihan says. The market is what a lot of travellers on long distance busses see when coming to Fort; a testament to Colombo’s reputation as a hub of commerce.
We descended a few concrete steps beyond a large banyan tree to the Pettah Floating Market. Although the installation looks charming from a distance, you quickly realise that the place has seen better days. Most of the boardwalk had rotten and the algae infested water and railway yard in the back assaults the senses. Most of the boardwalks’ amenities were in a state of disrepair except for the restaurants and shops themselves. We checked out the large gazebo closest to the Kela Pola.
The eateries offered generic fast food including several options of Mongolian food and different kinds of soft drinks. Even on a Monday evening, there were fair amounts of patrons, but some benches were occupied by homeless people. We spoke to the proprietor of Bell Pepper, Indika Pathirana who said he had a hotel near the bus stand with a seating capacity of 100 before his business was relocated to the boardwalk by the Government in 2014 when Pettah Floating market opened. “Our customers are mostly tourists and young people,” he says.
Pathirana tries best to keep his restaurant clean despite the challenges faced by scavenging crows, sludgy runoff from the railway line and the elements. The restaurants’ employees say that the busiest days are on weekends or when sports fans come to celebrate a victory.
Back to Aluthkade
The crowds had started pouring in by 8am, albeit meagre because it was a Monday. We spotted a few tourists and an assortment of locals at several establishments. All shops were brightly lit with neon and string lights.
Food critic Gihan Bulathsinhala
Our first stop was at Dubai Juicy, a confectionaries and refreshment stand. Dubai Juicy is owned and operated by Afzal Deen, a Hulfdorp local. The best seller here is the Dubai Juice, a Strawberry infused milkshake topped off with pomegranate seeds and mixed with watermelon for the extra kick. Although the Dubai Juice is extremely sweet, it is not sugary and hence extremely refreshing; just the thing for those warm tropical Colombo nights.
Deen said he learned several of the recipes while working in Saharjah. The Dubai Juicy is a go-to place for celebrity influencers when they visit Aluthkade. The store was recently featured in a documentary video by Emirati Youtuber Khalid Al Amri. “I have been approached by several businesses offering huge sums to franchise my brand, but I refused because I don’t want my recopies to lose their original quality,” says Deen with a humble smile.
The One Shot drink stand is another unique experience you can find at Aluthkade. The pushcart business is decorated with various celebrities who had tried the fizzy concoctions of the famous One Shot Jack. We talked to Jack, a Pettah native, to find out what makes his offerings so special.
“My drinks are made with a sprite base and include ingredients like mint and glucose. The patrons love the theatrics because it’s not just about the drink, but an experience”. Jack said that these mocktails have their origin in India where they are called Kulki Sharbath which means ‘shaken juice’ in Malayalam. There are several Kulki Sharbath stands in Aluthkade but it is One Shot that is the most outstand, partly due to its iconic name and Jack’s colourful persona.
A burger with a syringe caught our eye and we made our way to the opposite side of the street to Aluthkade Food Court. Various sandwiches caught our eye and we spoke to the cook about the food. “We don’t skimp on our meat. This triple burger sandwich here is made of three burger patties. What you see is what you get,” he said.
We asked him the idea behind the burger with a syringe. “This is our take on the cheeseburger. The usual sandwich comes with a slice of cheese or cheese spread. But we gave it a twist; injecting the cheese straight into the burger, he said while explaining that the sandwiches on menu are a big hit, especially among young boys.
We then met the owner of the restaurant Nashad, who is a 20-year old young entrepreneur and Pettah local. Nashad said that he started the business with just Rs. 400,000 and is now making close to Rs 200,000 on a good day. The young restaurateur also said he learned the street food trade while working at the neighbouring sandwich shop. “Who came up with the name?” we asked and Nashad said it is the name of the storefront he is renting.
Although the spirit of Aluthkade’s street food scene is commendable, the place can do better. There was littering and certain stalls had questionable hygiene. As home-grown businesses, restaurateurs and local stakeholders should come together to invest in its infrastructure. A dedicated parking lot and a traffic plan that allows pedestrians to freely move around Abdul Hameed Street could be one such improvement.
Food critic
Gihan, in his capacity as a food critic also suggested that upcoming business should focus on all-organic, wholesome and locally sourced food items to give a unique experience for tourists. “We already have eateries inspired by Indian and Western street food culture. A restaurant offering all-Sri Lankan dishes inspired by various parts of the island can be represented here,” he said.
Colombo’s street food scene, particularly in the vibrant neighbourhood of Aluthkade and Pettah, offers a unique and diverse culinary experience that has evolved over the years. One article does not do justice to what the city has to offer and we encourage our readers to take their time and go on their own food Safari.
In the heart of Colombo, Aluthkade and Pettah continue to be the undisputed kitchen of the city, offering a rich tapestry of flavours and experiences that reflect the city’s dynamic and evolving culinary landscape. With some enhancements, this food haven can further solidify its position as a must-visit destination for food enthusiasts and travellers alike.
