Kalutara is a very ancient city or pre-historic city on the banks of the graceful, majestic and ferocious Kalu Ganga. One who observes the river on a moon lit night from the bridge can see Samanala Kanda or Adam’s Peak rising above the river from where the great river originates and the estuary where she finishes her long journey. Kalutara is the only place from where you could observe such a marvel of nature.
During the early days of British regime, this town was famous for its salubrious climate and was considered a health resort.
Prominent Science Fiction Writer and nature lover Arthur C. Clarke predicted that Kalutara will be the Nuwara Eliya of low country. Mangroves that existed along the ridge and banks of Kalu Ganga made the town attractive to tourists and locals. But, today the ridge is no more.
Angry waves
The lagoon is damaged, mangroves have vanished and patches of sand appeared close to the estuary and the river has changed its course. Kali door has disappeared.
Angry waves of the Indian Ocean are threatening to swallow this beautiful town, owing to the hasty decision taken by somebody in authority to widen the estuary by damaging the ancient sand ridge. But authorities shirk the responsibility.
Earlier this sand bank could with hold it self when severe floods damaged it. It was this sand ridge that gave the city of Kalutara its unique beauty.
Kali Door
With the destruction of sand ridge, Kali Door or Kali’s door has vanished. The ocean is playing havoc. Lagoon of Kalu Ganga is another unique feature that enhanced the scenic beauty of Kalutara. It too is irreparably damaged. It was this sand bank that diverted the angry tsunami waves along the upstream of Kalu Ganga and saved the town.
According to legends in Waskaduwa, the Capital of Tharaka, the pre-historic Rakshasa King belonging to the lineage of Bali, Tharu and Ravana was Kalutara. Waskaduwa people claim that they are the descendants of soldiers who fought God Skanda or God of Kataragama.
They call themselves ‘Api Yakku’ which means ‘we are descendants of Rakshasas, the original inhabitants of Sri Lanka. The knowledge of Rakshasas about science, astronomy, medicine, agriculture and technology was far superior to that of modern West. Tharaka means ‘Star Gazer’. He was an astronomer.
During this King’s reign, Sri Lanka was subjected to tsunamis and the terrible floods of Kalu Ganga. Even during the tsunami of 2004, it was this sand ridge that protected Kalutara from the angry waves of the Indian Ocean. According to the descendants of the soldiers of Tharaka, it was the King Tharaka who built this ridge to protect his commercial capital, Kalutara.
Today, this protective ridge is no more. The Sacred Bodhiya is subjected to erosion. The lagoon is destroyed. It has turned into a sandy swamp. Stability of the beautiful bridge is threatened. Frequent attacks of ocean waves trouble the houses of the fisherfolk that live along the beach. The road that runs along the beach is always flooded with sea water. Authorities try to solve the problem with temporary patchwork.
Another escarpment
There is another escarpment in the ocean, surrounding Kalutara. It may be a natural formation or an escarpment built by Tharaka. One bright spark from Diyawanna Oya planned to sell Thorium present in the escarpment to a foreign bidder. Thanks to the nature lovers, this suggestion was nipped in the bud. Thorium present in the escarpment may indicate the presence of fossil fuel underneath the escarpment. But, beware of the Yakkus of Waskaduwa who have self-appointed themselves as the guardians of this area.
According to the elders of the area, the best way of choosing the best place to broaden the estuary when the river is in floods is to drop an entire husk of a coconut from the bridge into the river and observe the place it sinks. Engineers and administrators used to consult an educated ‘Veda Mahattaya’ when they had to broaden the estuary of Kalu Ganga. The tale of the husk of the coconut was the way the native doctor prescribed. According some technologists, destruction of the sand ridge had been done by using Nitro Glycerin or Dynamite. Once the ridge was destroyed, the ability of the reef to repair itself is irrevocably lost.
The writer is a retired Additional Provincial Director of Education, Southern Province.
