One of the three regions of ancient Lanka, Ruhuna has its origins in the arrival of Prince Rohana in the 5th Century BC. Rohana gave his name to the territory which was bounded by the sea in the South and the East.
Beginning at the Bentara River in west, it stretched along the Mahaweli River encompassing all the land to the East. Geographically Ruhuna occupied a major part of the East. Although the chronicles depict Anuradhapura as the most important Kingdom in the country, in the pre-Christian period it is possible that Ruhuna was much larger and more powerful.
The history of the Kingdom of Ruhuna begins with King Mahanaga, the brother of King Devanampiyatissa. It was King Mahanaga who founded the city of Mahagama, at Tissamaharama. From the 3rd Century BC to the 12th century AC, Mahagama was the capital of Ruhuna. Its ruins are still visible in the area around the Tissa Wewa.
Prosperous city
The image of a large Bodhisattva on the eastern side of the Dagaba
During the King Mahanaga’s time, Mahagama grew into a prosperous city. Following the example of Anuradhapura, the city was encircled by monasteries and several large tanks. The largest of these was the Tissa Wewa which was built by King Mahanaga himself. All around it were Dagabas and monasteries, the Menik Vihara, the Yatala Dagaba and Tissamaharamaya.
Besides the Tissamaharama Dagaba, the other Dagabas in its vicinity are the Yatala Dagaba (built by King Mahanaga of the 3rd Century BC,), the Menik Vihara and the Sandagiri Dagaba. Tradition says that this Menik Vehera was built by Prince Dutugemunu of the 2nd Century BC.
After King Mahanaga, the next important figure in the history of the Southern Kingdom was King Kawantissa of 2nd Century BC, the father of warrior King Dutugemunu. It was he who built the greatest Dagaba, the Tissamaharamaya. At the time of its construction, it was the largest Dagaba in the country.
Recently, during one of my visits to the South, I visited one of the most important archaeological sites in Ruhuna, the Yatala Dagaba at Tissamaharama which is not included in many travellers’ plans in Ruhuna although it is easily accessible from main road and considered one of the most important archaeological sites in Ruhuna. I took the Wellawaya road to reach this historic site.
After passing the Thanamalwila town and the fast retreating green canopies, the picturesque Wirawila tank is seen on the side of the road to Wellawaya. The Mattala airport has given the area a modern face-lift.
Werawila tank
The life size marble carved Buddha statues at the Yatala Dagaba premises
The Werawila tank nestles amid the mountainous profiles of the sacred peaks of Kataragama. On either side of the highway are stretches of large paddy fields watered by the Lunugam Vehera tank. The Yatala Dagaba lies on the right side of the main road to Kataragama before the Tissamaharama town.
Although nearly all of its buildings have disappeared, Tissamaharama remains a city of tanks and Dagabas gleaming from afar. The structures lie buried amid the paddy fields and coconut gardens. The Yatala Dagaba is about two kilometres away from the Tissamaharama Dagaba near Debarawewa. The shape of the Dagaba is believed to be ‘Bubbulakara’ or bubble shaped.
The Yatala Dagaba was constructed in the 3rd Century BC by King Mahanaga and its Vihara was built by King Yatalaya Tissa, and it was aptly named Yatalaya Vihara. Although it seems very plain today, the Yatala Dagaba was once grand and splendid. In recent years, it was restored by the Department of Archaeology. The striking feature of the Yatala Dagaba lies in its four imposing parapet walls in the foreground, friezes of elephant heads as seen in Ruwanweli Maha Seya in Anuradhapura.
Finely carved Buddha statues
Surrounding the Dagaba were image houses full of finely carved two Buddha statues, one is a headless torso and Bodhisattvas. All the statues are in standing position and they appear to date between 7th Century and 8th Century.
In one image house in the Eastern side of the Dagaba is a larger-than-life figure of the Bodhisattva which has also been restored by the Department of Archaeology. This figure shows how Mahayana Buddhism was to have an even greater impact in Ruhuna. Apart from the ruins of image houses, there are numerous upright stone pillars scattered around the Dagaba.
After the recent excavations, the Yatala ‘Salapatala Maluwa’ or the stone terrace around the Dagaba was paved at least three times to drain water. The first terrace seems to have been paved with bricks on two occasions and finally was covered with stone slabs which are seen now.
Before approaching the Dagaba, there stands a column of stone pillars which take our minds back to the Lova Mahapaya in Anuradhapura, popularly known as the Brazen Palace. These ruins of standing pillars are said to be the remains of a King’s palace and the Audience Hall.
The archaeologists had advanced various interpretations to an image found at the Yatala Dagaba site with the arms crossed over the breast. Some believe it to be an image of the Buddha and other that of Ananda, the Buddha’s chief attendant.
Irrigation schemes
Due to the launch of many irrigation schemes in the area over the past few decades, the ecology of the area has completely changed and the water levels have risen around the Dagaba. It is now an island surrounded by water full of lotus flowers.
Another unique feature in the Yatala Dagaba site is an archaeological museum built by the Department of Archaeology which showcases a number of archaeological findings unearthed through excavations in the Yatala Dagaba site and elsewhere. The Yatala Buddha is one of the most beautiful statues in Sri Lanka, which is exhibited in the middle chamber of the museum. The carving is so crisp that the folds of the robe stand out sharply. The statue was made out of dolomite marble in the 8th Century.
The head of the Bodhisatva image exhibited in the museum is very much similar to a sculpture found at the Girihandu Vihara of Ambalantota. Several ancient Buddha images recovered from the site are fixed in locations in the compound of the Dagaba.
Artefacts
The museum also exhibits some artefacts found in Ruhuna and especially in the Yatala Dagaba premises. The intricately carved slab inscriptions, Bodhisattva heads, a fine marble carved Buddha head, toilet stone, clay shower and elephant stables are some of the exhibits which are unique and magnificent. The officials from the Department of Archaeology station in the museum to educate visitors the history of the Yatala Dagaba.
At present, only the Dagaba is clearly visible to the visitor. There had been many other buildings which were part of the Yatala monastery. Although the original extent of Yatala is not known, the cluster of stone pillars found across the road from Yatala as well as ruins of brick walls indicate the existence of a large monastery. Most of these ruins are in private lands and many are not reclaimed, thus a heritage of over 2000 years remains to be protected.
Today, Tissamaharama teeming with a big farming and agricultural population is a well-developed historical town with all modern facilities. It is one of the bountiful rice bowls in Sri Lanka. Tissamaharama is a booming tourist destination as well.
One of the restored structures at the site
The Menik Vehera stands just outside the Yatala Dagaba
