Chanting haro hara, haro hara, Hindu devotees in their hundreds throng the precincts of the Ruhunu Maha Kataragama devale – an abode dedicated to God Skanda (also known as Murugan among Hindu devotees, and Kataragama deviyo among the Buddhists) in the deep South of Sri Lanka. Cries Sadu, Sadu are heard from Buddhist pilgrims who also flock to the site where a Bo tree and a temple exist alongside the Devale. The Muslims too have a mosque in the premises attracting devotees.
Devotees make a vow and tie a piece of cloth around this trident,
as a reminder of their vows
Legend says that King Dutugemunu (161-137 BC), the national hero who unified the country, was the first patron of Kataragama. He is said to have made a vow to construct a shrine in honour of Skanda if he was victorious in the war against the invaders from South India. The shrine thus dates back to the 2nd Century BC.
The Buddhists have a close kinship with Kataragama for another reason. In close proximity to the devale lies a majestic dagaba named Kirivehera. It is one of 16 places identified as spots visited by the Buddha. Masonry marks found in the bricks and letters inscribed in Kirivehera indicate that the dagaba was built in the 1st Century BC.
The Buddhist have always had a close link with certain deities – in fact, many consider God Skanda as Sri Lanka’s guardian deity, with a strong sway over the Southern part of the country. God Skanda has been described in eulogies as a god having six faces and 12 arms. His assistance is sought for prosperity and protection by Buddhists and Hindus, and thousands of vows are made daily across the country seeking the god’s help.
Religious harmony
The pristine white façade of Kirivehera
Laying aside their religious differences, both Hindu and Buddhist devotees linger freely in the Kataragama devale premises, showing much camaraderie. They carry the identical pooja-vatti (baskets of fruits offered to God Skanda) which are handed over to a kapurala or priest in charge.
The kapurala who accepts the offerings would place a little holy ash on the forehead of the devotee. A part of the offering is kept back and the balance is returned in the form of holy food. This is accepted gracefully and enjoyed. The coconut oil used to light the lamps inside the devale is used by everyone to anoint their heads. Some collect the oil into small bottles to be taken home for use later since they believe the oil is holy and helps cure illnesses.
Breaking coconuts is a common sight at Kataragama, and is considered an act of homage to the gods or a symbol of gratitude. It is also one of the simplest ways of settling a vow. Vows are made at Kataragama to fulfil a longing or need in life, to seek redress from a problem or cure an illness. At the time the vow is made, they would promise to break a coconut during the next trip to Kataragama. Thus, the first thing they do after reaching Kataragama would be to fulfil the vow.
The sacred offerings to God Skanda
There is hardly anyone – whether a Buddhist or a Hindu – who does not carry a mature coconut and breaks it on entering the temple yard. A special enclosure with an embedded stone has been built for this purpose and devotees are expected to use their full strength and break the coconut into two in the first attempt. The pieces are collected and used to prepare the oil needed to light the lamps in the temple. It is customary for a small piece to also be consumed.
Although so many devotees make an annual trip to Kataragama, they are unable to explain why they go there regularly. “It’s our devotion,” many would say. Most of them believe going to Kataragama has a salutary effect. There are regulars who go there before they start work for the New Year. Most owners of new vehicles would invariably prefer to go to Kataragama on the first trip.
In view of its sanctity, Kataragama has been declared a sacred city. The Menik Ganga, the river which runs through Kataragama, serves as the boundary separating the sacred city from the new town.
Going to Kataragama was a ritual in the old days. Great care was taken because the journey was tedious. Public transport was not available and the area in and around Kataragama was jungle land. Both the Hindus and Buddhists refrained from eating fish or flesh during the trip, a custom that many observe to this day.
Annual festival
The exterior of the Ruhunu Maha Kataragama Devale
Although there is no particular season for devotees to visit Kataragama, the annual festival in July is held in grand style. Self-punishment is a significant feature during the ten-day festival. Hindus perform acts of penance. These acts are performed to settle various vows. The commonest is for pious pilgrims to roll themselves around the Maha devale and other temples dedicated to various gods.
During July, pilgrims may enjoy Kataragama’s grand festival, a feast for the soul, eyes and ears, with caparisoned elephants, percussion music and nightly processions. Festivals for all faiths take place simultaneously creating a congenial atmosphere of peace and serenity. Kataragama remains as an outstanding monument of religious harmony.
The ancient tradition of undertaking the foot pilgrimage to Kataragama known as Pada Yatra, sees devotees dressed in simple unstitched garb, walking from Jaffna and other places up to 57 days before the Kataragama Esala festival joined by other pilgrims along the way. Relying upon villagers for their meals along the way, they walk for weeks and weeks, through jungles, sleeping under the stars until they reach Kataragama.
Today, the trip to Kataragama takes only a few hours from Colombo. Those taking the coastal route (Galle Road) would make a whistle stop at the Kalutara Bodhi tree where an offering would be made and a plea made for their safe return. Some stop at a devale in Devinuwara, a few kilometres South of Matara. Here too they would appeal for a safe journey to and from Kataragama. Now, the Southern Expressway is one of the sorts after highways for more busy pilgrims to Kataragama and they would reach in short time to the Kataragama sacred city.
Devotees bathe in the Menik Ganga
As soon as the pilgrims arrive at Kataragama, they would take a dip in the Menik Ganga and cleanse themselves. Often the water is only knee deep or even less. If there are rains in the hills, the water flow would be at a higher level. Following the bath, they would change into white clothes, considered a sight of purity.
The lines of shops outside the devale premises offer a range of pooja bhanda – articles for offerings, in particular, an assortment of fruits commonly used for the purpose. Prices differ according to the size of the basket of offerings selected. A common item seen on all of them is a necklace of red flowers.
Carrying the offerings, the devotee would cross the river and walk to the mahadevale, the main shrine.
