The island’s largest island is enchanting to the point of serenity where the palmyrah palm trees and animal and human life co-exist undisturbed
Far away from the bustling cities and towns stands a broad strip of land where life is as laid back as it is serene and where two races come together and southern tourists call it the ‘End of Sri Lanka’.
The phrase can also hide a pun with plans afoot to reopen a link between India and Sri Lanka amid fears that an influx of Indians can hold sway and dilute the identity of the country’s largest island Mannar.
Further away is the end of the rail track at Thalaimannar that marks a unique boundary where beyond some 22 miles away lies India and the mythical Adams or sand bridge only holds traces of a legend steeped in history.
“From here it is like you could see India”, said a naval sentry in jest atop a watch post. The old jetty or Pier that held a rail track from where visitors to and forth from India and Sri Lanka, then Ceylon boarded ferries now lay in a rusted dilapidated state.
But the island of Mannar is unlike any other belonging to Sri Lanka. Its roads and the main highway are owned by scores of donkeys whose presence motorists don’t complain and avoid causing any accidental harm to any which is rare.
Donkey Clinic
Any donkey injured can be taken to a nearby sanctuary called the Donkey Clinic where they can be treated. Contrary to what may be said about donkeys, they are as intelligent and responsive as any other species interacting with humans and visitors to the Clinic can even sponsor a donkey. Some of them answer to names such as Joy, Benjo, Kavi, Melita, Gremi, Rosanka, Matilda and Benji and their caretaker Hathafi does not have to repeat and order them about.
At night, goats sleep in the centre of the road and all forms of life are respected. Peacocks run across the road and the rare crested hoopoe can be seen perched up a power line while sea eagles and kites soar great distances. Sea gulls and egrets have lost their fear of humans and wait patiently until the arrival of a fishing boat to unload the day’s catch.
But like donkeys and goats are given their due recognition as part and parcel of the native culture and birds of prey look down at the cobalt blue ocean under the clear skies, house cats too patrol the beach for fish and crows don’t stand a chance to grab a morsel.
Mannar’s tranquility unmatched
The peace and tranquility of Mannar and its soothing island cannot be matched with any other landscape in the island with plenty of churches and shrines dedicated to Catholic saints. So Catholic that Tamils and Sinhalese don’t have to look at one another as outsiders.
But nothing can take the place of the palmyrah palm trees that stand like icons of the land and give it a look unlike any other with their crusty leaves like fans offering a sea-side breeze. To have the island of Mannar minus its palm trees would be like a sea without its corals and creatures.
Sadly the Portuguese Fort lay in ruins with renovation work underway. Only its granite stone wall ramparts remain intact rising above a murky moat and the lagoon on one side. A short distance away stands the monumental baobab tree boasting of the largest girth.
But what attracts visitors from the south of the country most, is the red dead-end barrier of the rail track a short distance from the Talaimannar railway station and a few feet away from the sea and the lighthouse adjoining like a towering ghost under a moonlit night.
