In the very first column that appeared in TimeWatch, we had one piece of advice for our readers: Do not be a one-watch person. Variety, they say, is the spice of life and your wrist needs it too. Even if you do not care much about watches, you should have five to seven watches which you can wear on different days. Once you wear a watch, it becomes an extension of your soul.
But beyond that, you are sliding into “Watch Collector” territory. There are so many watches out there – you can collect watches for a lifetime and yet barely touch the surface. So it pays to do some research, set a budget for each watch and temper your expectations. Remember that your watch collection is a living, evolving thing that reflects your aspirations. Building it up should be a fun journey.
It is best to start small. My first watch was a Casio analogue quartz, which is still running after so many years. Even with the depreciation of the Rupee, you can buy a starter Quartz watch for well under Rs. 20,000. So, if you want to get serious about watch collecting you should start out with an inexpensive quartz watch.
Most people I know want to own a Rolex or an Omega someday, but that should not be your main goal. There are so many watches that you can collect without spending millions. But if you have the money, buy a Rolex or Cartier by all means. But it is not the end of the world if you cannot get one.
With those titbits out of the way, let us dwell on the intricacies of watch collecting. First, get a clear idea of the budget and the frequency with which you can buy watches. Have your wits about you as you go into this hobby, which can actually push you down a rabbit hole. Perhaps you can buy a watch worth Rs. 50,000 every two months or save the money and buy a watch worth Rs.400,000. That will probably be a once a year purchase.
Do not limit your purchases to either quartz or automatic. Go for a mix of both, since there are affordable (relatively speaking) automatic watches from brands such as Tissot. Also, you should have watches with different dial colours, different complications, different styles (dive, tool, dress, sport, GMT etc.) and different dial shapes (square, round and even triangular).
Most people prefer to collect only analogue watches, but explore smart watches and also G-Shocks from Casio, some of which combine an analogue watch face with a digital display. Digital watches can be far more versatile than analogues – the Shark digital watch I am wearing as I type this tells me the time in Colombo and New York, the month, date and time and has an alarm and stopwatch facility too. Some Casios can give you the time in 48 cities, which some analogue watches from the likes of IWC can also do, but at around 1,000 times the price.
That brings us to whether you should be looking at a watch from an investment angle. That IWC you buy today could be worth several times more if it becomes a classic in time to come, but this does not always happen. Again, the best option is to buy what you like without necessarily thinking of investment per se. But if there is a watch you just do not wear much anymore – or its value has really gone up, you can sell it and keep building your collection. This is why you should keep the original receipts, warranty cards and even the packaging box with you.
And do wear the watches you buy – do not keep them on display for an eternity. Watches are meant to be worn and admired, loved even. If you have 30 watches, each watch could get just one day on your wrist, supposing you wear it the whole day.
Before you buy a watch, do some research on the Internet and read reviews on watch websites. Know your calibre numbers, movements and watch reference numbers. Also think whether you want a metal bracelet or a strap. The same watch on a leather strap could be millions of rupees cheaper. Check whether you can change the strap yourself.
I know that you are thinking of only buying brand new watches – but watch dealers often have slightly used high quality watches for much less than their retail price. There are even unworn watches – usually unwanted gifts that end up with watch dealers, who are only too happy to get rid of them. Remember, no one will know you are wearing a used watch if it is in good condition.
But do your homework and inspect thoroughly before buying a used watch. And do not buy if the price quoted is unbelievably low. Many people do not realise that new watches are a lot like cars. The minute you buy a new watch and walk out of the shop with it, it takes a hit in value. Investing in pre-owned watches not only allows you to get more value for money, but it also allows you to completely avoid the initial depreciation. One of the trickiest parts of watch collecting is dealing with counterfeit watches. Avoid pitfalls by learning about common tell-tale signs of counterfeit watches. Pay attention to design inconsistencies, fonts, logo, and finishing quality.
Be bold as you venture into watch collecting. Everyone will want to have a Citizen, Seiko, Bulova, Longines or a Raymond Weil in their collection, but do explore the world of micro brands such as Fears, Farer, Baltic, Unimatic and Monta. Then there are brands such as Christopher Ward that hover somewhere in between. Also look for watches made outside Japan and Switzerland, including Germany, France, UK, USA and Australia. They usually have unique designs that set them apart from the mainstream brands. But do avoid copycat watches that look like Rolexes and Omegas, everyone can guess they are not the real thing.
If you have more than 10 watches, do invest in a watch box without keeping them here and there. They are a bit expensive – you can buy another watch in some instances for the same amount of money. But it is well worth the investment. Winders may also be necessary for automatics, especially if you do not wear them often.
Watch collecting is a long-haul game. So take your, time, study about the watches available in the market, talk to people who are passionate about watches. We will return to this subject in future issues. Until then, happy collecting.
